Interstate battery
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2023.06.04 05:30 whiteboi_34 2018 Hyundai sonata battery
 | submitted by whiteboi_34 to sonata [link] [comments] |
2023.06.04 04:53 whiteboi_34 2018 Hyundai sonata battery
| | My battery died yesterday and went to the local part store and they recommended the Interstate MTP-48/H6 battery. I’m not a car junkie and might get some shit but after looking it up later I should’ve gotten the MTX version. Is my car going to blow up if I keep the one I got? submitted by whiteboi_34 to Hyundai [link] [comments] |
2023.06.04 04:00 A-Wondering-Guy Rear motor cut out. Only FWD for a hour.
No idea what happened but stopped and got like most of a battery charge at like 250kw. Got up to like 98%
Began driving and maybe it wasn’t instant or maybe in didn’t notice but then pretty much determined the rear motor was off. Regen wasn’t doing much. FWD would surge to like full throttle. Was going down the interstate ok but had zero acceleration.
Pulled into a rest stop and turned the car on and off. Didn’t help. Drove the rest of the way to the hotel, didn’t resolve in 15min. But then after left for our event, seems to have cured itself.
What happened? No engine codes, not sure I know of any diagnostics. Was pretty hot out today. Need suggestions of what maybe I should check or do.
submitted by A-Wondering-Guy to Ioniq5 [link] [comments]
Began driving and maybe it wasn’t instant or maybe in didn’t notice but then pretty much determined the rear motor was off. Regen wasn’t doing much. FWD would surge to like full throttle. Was going down the interstate ok but had zero acceleration.
Pulled into a rest stop and turned the car on and off. Didn’t help. Drove the rest of the way to the hotel, didn’t resolve in 15min. But then after left for our event, seems to have cured itself.
What happened? No engine codes, not sure I know of any diagnostics. Was pretty hot out today. Need suggestions of what maybe I should check or do.
2023.06.04 00:05 Naive_Establishment2 Another Poshmark find.
 | submitted by Naive_Establishment2 to NASCARCollectors [link] [comments] |
2023.06.03 01:03 Historical-Bread-798 If someone could help ID these to. location:Chicago Thank!
 | submitted by Historical-Bread-798 to whatisthiscar [link] [comments] |
2023.06.02 23:23 UncleFukus Question on C40/XC40 Recharge Highway Range and MY24
Looking into a C40. My use case will be 80% of the time travelling at 80mph on the interstate, the other 20% in stop-n-go traffic. My commute round trip is 80 miles. I am to understand the MPG equivalent of EVs starts to drop significantly above say 65mph.
submitted by UncleFukus to Volvo [link] [comments]
- Does anyone have a relative idea of what kind of range decrease can be expected due to my anticipated cruising speed?
- I understand MY24 has shifted motor power to the rear wheel for the twin drive which apparently helps range. This is coupled with a slightly larger battery. But what I am most interested in is I have read due to the reafront now being split, that potentially it could also operate in rear wheel mode only for increased range? Effectively giving the C40 a new 'mode'.
2023.06.02 19:33 dimoko Heads up, battery and aux battery (2018 Touring L Plus)
Had a situation come up today that i wanted to share so you could avoid before it happens. Got a call from my wife that the van stopped at a light and the whole car just shut down, black screens, nothing worked, not even flashers. she hit the button and it came back on and gave her warnings about the start/stop system.
talked to the dealer and they said it was likely the start/stop battery was bad. After talking to the battery guy (the interstate dealer) he said that you should change out that aux battery after 5 years no matter what, they are kind of a time-bomb. and while you're at it, change the main one because you're halfway there.
So they were pricey because of the types of battery they were, but got new batteries in and everything was fine. But if you aren't the one driving it daily, save your wife some hassle and be proactive about the battery.
submitted by dimoko to ChryslerPacifica [link] [comments]
talked to the dealer and they said it was likely the start/stop battery was bad. After talking to the battery guy (the interstate dealer) he said that you should change out that aux battery after 5 years no matter what, they are kind of a time-bomb. and while you're at it, change the main one because you're halfway there.
So they were pricey because of the types of battery they were, but got new batteries in and everything was fine. But if you aren't the one driving it daily, save your wife some hassle and be proactive about the battery.
2023.06.02 18:36 hauzapiz Battery light/high RPM highway issues
Posting because i can't find a similar issue after a search. Car is a '99 Mazda Protege ES 1.8 auto, previous owner stated car was neglected, have been fixing multiple issues since purchase (~1wk).
Issue in question is that at times, when accelerating to highway speeds over 60 into 70 with a moderate pedal depress, it will fail to upshift into its proper gear, and the battery light will come on. Range is about 3500-4000rpm. Lightening pedal depress to coach it into an upshift does not work, and further depressing to attempt a downshift has the same result.
After about a minute or so, turn signals stop working and I can presume my vehicle lights have also turned off by this point.
When accelerating to highway speeds around 60 slowly it will generally shift into its proper gear with no other problems. When this issue is present, slowing down to 45 or below downshifts successfully, battery light disappears and signals work.
After one or two minutes with this happening the battery light will turn off and the car will upshift into its proper gear.
I don't know when the transmission was last inspected, the battery is an Interstate (according to an inspection I got a few days ago) about 3 years old. I haven't checked alternator voltage either.
None of these issues occur at lower speeds; I assume it's an electrical problem occurring through high rpm due to a transmission problem.
At regular speeds car shifts mostly fine, with an occasional slight delay in upshifting or downshifting; no clunk or rattle noises from trans. I haven't checked common problems or recall notices for this model; if anyone has insight it would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
submitted by hauzapiz to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
Issue in question is that at times, when accelerating to highway speeds over 60 into 70 with a moderate pedal depress, it will fail to upshift into its proper gear, and the battery light will come on. Range is about 3500-4000rpm. Lightening pedal depress to coach it into an upshift does not work, and further depressing to attempt a downshift has the same result.
After about a minute or so, turn signals stop working and I can presume my vehicle lights have also turned off by this point.
When accelerating to highway speeds around 60 slowly it will generally shift into its proper gear with no other problems. When this issue is present, slowing down to 45 or below downshifts successfully, battery light disappears and signals work.
After one or two minutes with this happening the battery light will turn off and the car will upshift into its proper gear.
I don't know when the transmission was last inspected, the battery is an Interstate (according to an inspection I got a few days ago) about 3 years old. I haven't checked alternator voltage either.
None of these issues occur at lower speeds; I assume it's an electrical problem occurring through high rpm due to a transmission problem.
At regular speeds car shifts mostly fine, with an occasional slight delay in upshifting or downshifting; no clunk or rattle noises from trans. I haven't checked common problems or recall notices for this model; if anyone has insight it would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
2023.06.01 02:47 Limmew Found the Cracker Barrel wave
 | submitted by Limmew to NASCARCollectors [link] [comments] |
2023.05.31 23:19 arkmtech Vehicle shaking at Interstate speeds (75+ MPH)
I have a 2015 GMC Sierra V8 crew-cab truck which is shaking noticeably (yet not violently) when I drive on the Interstate at 70+ MPH
Afterward, everything seemed normal, but I don't drive the vehicle very often since I generally work from home – and when I do drive it, it's generally just around town at 25-55 MPH, with no shaking at those speeds
In late February, I had to make a short trip to the next town over, and noticed the shaking right away
At first I thought maybe the Interstate roads were a little wash-boarded, but shortly after rode in a coworker's car over the same stretch of road, and it became apparent something was wrong with my truck
I took it back to the dealership, which performed a multi-point inspection (lights, battery, fluids, brakes & lines, shocks, shaft boots, tire tread wear & inflation) and passed everything, only noting Left-Front and Right-Front tread as 10, and Left-rear and Right-Rear tread as 9. The service manager assured me the lugs were torqued to spec, and the vehicle was safe to drive
Fast-forward to 1 week ago, and then also today, when I again had to make trips to nearby towns via the Interstate – everything feels fine until I reach ~70 MPH, and then the shaking begins
Sometimes when changing lanes, or taking a curve, the shaking will subside and the drive suddenly becomes nice and smooth – but after 2-3 miles, or after changing lanes or taking a curve again, the shaking comes back
Searching Google seems to suggest that my tires may have become unbalanced. If that indeed seems likely, can the dealership fix that, or is it better to go to a tire shop?
Otherwise, is another issue(s) that's more likely the cause?
Much as I love watching Donut on YouTube, I'm admittedly not the most mechanically-inclined person, so am at a loss for how best to approach getting this fixed
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, since I'm hoping to make a several-hundred-mile trip in the next 2 weeks and want to be absolutely certain the vehicle is safe
Thanks much!
*EDIT: To add info, the steering wheel does not seem to shake at all – just the truck itself, enough that I can feel it through the driver's seat. I have not made any customizations or changes, so everything is OEM. The engine is a L83 - VVT with Active Fuel Management, and the truck came with the "Max Towing Package" installed from the factory
submitted by arkmtech to AskMechanics [link] [comments]
- Year: 2015
- Make: GMC
- Model: Sierra
- Mileage: 62,200
- Engine size: 5.3L V8
- Transmission Type: Automatic
Afterward, everything seemed normal, but I don't drive the vehicle very often since I generally work from home – and when I do drive it, it's generally just around town at 25-55 MPH, with no shaking at those speeds
In late February, I had to make a short trip to the next town over, and noticed the shaking right away
At first I thought maybe the Interstate roads were a little wash-boarded, but shortly after rode in a coworker's car over the same stretch of road, and it became apparent something was wrong with my truck
I took it back to the dealership, which performed a multi-point inspection (lights, battery, fluids, brakes & lines, shocks, shaft boots, tire tread wear & inflation) and passed everything, only noting Left-Front and Right-Front tread as 10, and Left-rear and Right-Rear tread as 9. The service manager assured me the lugs were torqued to spec, and the vehicle was safe to drive
Fast-forward to 1 week ago, and then also today, when I again had to make trips to nearby towns via the Interstate – everything feels fine until I reach ~70 MPH, and then the shaking begins
Sometimes when changing lanes, or taking a curve, the shaking will subside and the drive suddenly becomes nice and smooth – but after 2-3 miles, or after changing lanes or taking a curve again, the shaking comes back
Searching Google seems to suggest that my tires may have become unbalanced. If that indeed seems likely, can the dealership fix that, or is it better to go to a tire shop?
Otherwise, is another issue(s) that's more likely the cause?
Much as I love watching Donut on YouTube, I'm admittedly not the most mechanically-inclined person, so am at a loss for how best to approach getting this fixed
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, since I'm hoping to make a several-hundred-mile trip in the next 2 weeks and want to be absolutely certain the vehicle is safe
Thanks much!
*EDIT: To add info, the steering wheel does not seem to shake at all – just the truck itself, enough that I can feel it through the driver's seat. I have not made any customizations or changes, so everything is OEM. The engine is a L83 - VVT with Active Fuel Management, and the truck came with the "Max Towing Package" installed from the factory
2023.05.30 17:26 mjmuenster66 Cole Park Amphitheater Shows this Summer
 | submitted by mjmuenster66 to CorpusChristi [link] [comments] |
2023.05.30 16:48 Nana_923 Choosing the Right Excavator Equipment Planet Equipment
 | What are the things to consider when choosing the right excavator? Once you’ve been hired for a new position as a result of a successful bid, it’s time to confirm that you have all the required tools. One of the most common pieces of construction equipment used by businesses to complete new projects is the excavator. Choosing the best excavator might be challenging with so many alternatives available. submitted by Nana_923 to equipmentbuyandsell [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/wse0xjnsez2b1.jpg?width=259&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0d92dbd914382a1c3b1c01e1213ca7c3bb194a58 Fortunately, this lesson will show you how to pick an excavator that meets your needs. After that, match your excavator to the task’s requirements, the work that has been done, and the job site itself. Make sure you have access to any feature support you’ll need for upcoming assignments. 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These are the most flexible excavators, able to perform a variety of jobs and operate in practically any environment. They will be hefty and injure the terrain they must travel since they have a lot of strength. They are strong and portable, but they take up a lot of room. They are fairly widespread in the construction sector. Large. Excavators are categorized as heavy machinery and can weigh up to 95 tons. These devices are the real workhorses of industry. They are not common in cities or in locations where there are many hills close to the construction site, but they are always available to supply energy for large-scale construction projects. There will need to be a significant investment in equipment as well as a trailer to transfer these gadgets to each building site. If you do, you’ll be able to tell if you require this much size and strength. There are many different combinations available for each part. 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Mini excavators may be loaded into the back of a utility vehicle or a compact trailer for simple transit between job sites. The transport load is minimal. Some Cat mini excavator models may be legal to trailer and tow with a basic Class C California driver’s license since their operating weight is less than 10,000 pounds. For tasks requiring only a small amount of room, mini excavators are ideal. For instance, working in a backyard requires navigating gates and a constrained area. Many of the same duties that a regular excavator can perform, but on a smaller scale, can be completed by a little excavator. Job tasks that would ordinarily need manual digging can be greatly sped up this way. ADVERTISE OUR MINI EXCAVATORS When ought to one use a mini excavator? What does a little excavator serve? Mini excavators are incredibly flexible since they can be fitted with a variety of accessories. Because of their small size and light weight, mini excavators are more useful than you may imagine. These four tasks are suitable for this kind of equipment. What does a little excavator serve? Mini excavators are incredibly flexible since they can be fitted with a variety of accessories. Because of their small size and light weight, mini excavators are more useful than you may imagine. These four tasks are suitable for this kind of equipment.
Many varieties have ergonomic seats and controls that are intended with the operator’s comfort in mind. Choose a cab that has ample room and enables quick access to all the excavator’s controls and features. Your operator can work comfortably and adapt to different operators thanks to chairs that are adjustable and have lateral movement. The heating and cooling system should be taken into account when choosing an excavator as part of the comfort factor. These must have adequate power to maintain the comfort of your space. Controls similar to those seen in cars and trucks are common in modern cabs. Check these out to make sure the controls are easy to use. Look for two vents: one in front of and one behind the operator’s seat. More comfort should be taken into account as the excavator is used by your operators for extended periods of time. Choose an excavator that will improve performance rather than hamper it. There are more tools required for the work in addition to an excavator. When you need to accomplish more than just dig, you’ll need a different excavator. Consider the accessories it can hold if you need a machine that is adaptable. Excavators have access to a wide range of attachments that may assist with a number of jobs, such as the following: Buckets. With a variety of styles for digging, grading, ditch cleaning, and other tasks, as well as alternatives to match the severity of your work, buckets are your excavator’s most versatile extension. Couplers. Your excavator can switch tools quickly and without a crew thanks to these accessories. Your machine has the ability to switch between multiple tasks as you move around the job site. Compaction. Compaction wheels and vibrating plates are useful for pipeline contractors for site preparation. Rippers. A ripper may dislodge ice on the ground or even hard dirt. These come at different depths and have the ability to support couplers. They are frequently used for trenching and pipeline support. Hammers. Pavement and building destruction typically involves the use of excavators. Because they can switch between the tool and a bucket using a coupler, hammers are more effective at this task. ADVANCED OPTIONS FOR CHOOSING THE BEST EXCAVATOR VIEW ASSIGNS FOR OUR EXCAVATORS There are a few other features you should consider when buying an excavator. These might help you compare your top options and help you choose the greatest excavator by providing a checklist. Some of the more important secondary characteristics include the following: Included are anti-vandalism features. These options include the capability to lock specific areas and locations on the device, restricting both its use and the removal of anything. These are helpful if you have to leave your excavator at the job site. This shields you from liability if someone is harmed while breaking into your property while also safeguarding your tools and the workplace. power sources There are several power distribution methods available that may provide electricity for your attachments and boom. Some will also include a trick that will give your songs extra force. You can enhance performance in situations where your equipment is likely to be used thanks to these technologies. The controls are hydraulic. Newer excavators feature top-of-the-line hydraulics added in the cab to help with control. It makes the operation simpler and allows your operator to maneuver more precisely. The performance of your operator will also be improved by ergonomic setups. These elements are important to consider while deciding how to buy an excavator. Before making a purchase, get a hold of the excavator and test it out. Get some practical experience with a machine before you hand it any money. This stage is essential in selecting the model of excavator you intend to employ because every excavator is unique. When assessing a possible excavator, look for the things listed below:
Your trusted partner since 1919, Interstate Heavy Equipment, can help you make a selection and specify your work requirements. Whether you’re purchasing new or old equipment, the capacity to complete the necessary tasks is the most important aspect to keep in mind. When making your choice, take into account available features, attachment support, space restrictions, and other aspects. SOURCE |
2023.05.29 23:31 platinumtalon Battery Warranty Experience
Just had an interesting (positive!) experience with our local dealership and a dead battery.
First, I apparently missed or never saw the battery recall information. I had no idea there was an issue with the batteries.
We'd just returned home from an extended trip and our battery was dead on our 2019 Forester. Not surprising since it sat for a while and the battery is the original when we purchased the vehicle new in 2019.
Subaru Roadside jumped me the next morning and I decided to drive to the dealership. They were not busy and were able to take a look. They did the curbside basic battery test and it failed on "cold cranks" and they told me I could limp it along or get a replacement for $500 dollars.
We have one car (and have had some issues with the auto-shutoff feature) so I decided to go forward with the replacement. They took the car back and within minutes came back to me with a sticky note with the phone number to reach out to the Subaru Battery Settlement hotline, along with instructions on how to get to the right place in the phone tree to talk with a human.
I called, spoke with a human, gave them my VIN, determined my vehicle was in the affected class, and I received a reference number to give back to the dealer. Gave the dealer the code, they did a more extensive test (I gathered the code might unlock a tool developed by Interstate Battery to determine if the battery is actually bad), got news that it both needed to be replaced and would be completely free.
A few hours later I drove away with a brand new battery for free from a recall I didn't even know about. 10/10 experience, but come on how did they ship this cars with such an underpowered battery!
TLDR - Didn't know about https://www.subarubatterysettlement.com. My battery died, took it to the dealer, they told me about the settlement and I got a free battery out of it.
submitted by platinumtalon to subaru [link] [comments]
First, I apparently missed or never saw the battery recall information. I had no idea there was an issue with the batteries.
We'd just returned home from an extended trip and our battery was dead on our 2019 Forester. Not surprising since it sat for a while and the battery is the original when we purchased the vehicle new in 2019.
Subaru Roadside jumped me the next morning and I decided to drive to the dealership. They were not busy and were able to take a look. They did the curbside basic battery test and it failed on "cold cranks" and they told me I could limp it along or get a replacement for $500 dollars.
We have one car (and have had some issues with the auto-shutoff feature) so I decided to go forward with the replacement. They took the car back and within minutes came back to me with a sticky note with the phone number to reach out to the Subaru Battery Settlement hotline, along with instructions on how to get to the right place in the phone tree to talk with a human.
I called, spoke with a human, gave them my VIN, determined my vehicle was in the affected class, and I received a reference number to give back to the dealer. Gave the dealer the code, they did a more extensive test (I gathered the code might unlock a tool developed by Interstate Battery to determine if the battery is actually bad), got news that it both needed to be replaced and would be completely free.
A few hours later I drove away with a brand new battery for free from a recall I didn't even know about. 10/10 experience, but come on how did they ship this cars with such an underpowered battery!
TLDR - Didn't know about https://www.subarubatterysettlement.com. My battery died, took it to the dealer, they told me about the settlement and I got a free battery out of it.
2023.05.29 01:34 Wickedshark88 NOCO Genuis 2x2 question
As the title says I am using a 2x2 noco charger. I have it connected to an Interstate AGM waverunner battery. It charges the battery, but then after a few days it seems to shut off or stop charging and then when I turn it back on I have to select the AGM battery type. The batter is half dead again though. I thought this charger would continue to keep the battery charged like a battery tender would. What am I doing wrong.
submitted by Wickedshark88 to batteries [link] [comments]
2023.05.25 21:31 tranquil-_-sea P0401 / EGR failure - possible to drive ICE?
I've been bit by the P0401 egr valve issue on my 2016/95k premium. Blew F3/non-walk home, lost engine power. I know the cleaning is straightforward, but I'm not a car guy so easing into that, maybe going to try and find an amenable mechanic. I've seen the youtube. Certainly don't want to spend 1k+ and wait weeks/months for the part...
So, I'm stuck on battery range for now, but I'd like to visit some family ~100mi of interstate away.
Reading here I saw someone say basically - "just replace the non-walk-home fuse and *remove the egr fuse*, you'll get worse mileage until you can replace / clean the valve, but it will run fine".
A. Where is this EGR fuse? I thought F3/non-walk-home *was* the egr fuse...
B. It's really ok to drive ICE for sustained periods like that? I know w/non-walk-home replaced, if I go ICE currently it dies w/in a mile or 2, from overheating I assume... There is a way to avoid this that would make it safe and reasonable to do a few hours of interstate driving?
submitted by tranquil-_-sea to volt [link] [comments]
So, I'm stuck on battery range for now, but I'd like to visit some family ~100mi of interstate away.
Reading here I saw someone say basically - "just replace the non-walk-home fuse and *remove the egr fuse*, you'll get worse mileage until you can replace / clean the valve, but it will run fine".
A. Where is this EGR fuse? I thought F3/non-walk-home *was* the egr fuse...
B. It's really ok to drive ICE for sustained periods like that? I know w/non-walk-home replaced, if I go ICE currently it dies w/in a mile or 2, from overheating I assume... There is a way to avoid this that would make it safe and reasonable to do a few hours of interstate driving?
2023.05.24 23:38 KikiDeevolution Some nut blasting on/off action
 | Ferrari California intake blasting submitted by KikiDeevolution to Justrolledintotheshop [link] [comments] |
2023.05.24 16:45 JSB18 Can someone explain difference in price?
 | Why is the 27F hd/Cold climate battery less expensive than the 24f battery? I would assume the 27f would be more. Thanks submitted by JSB18 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments] |
2023.05.24 02:59 towingnapervelle Car Battery Replacement in Naperville
 | submitted by towingnapervelle to u/towingnapervelle [link] [comments] |
2023.05.23 18:33 DevelopmentSelect646 More questions on boat batteries and charging
I have a Stratos 386xf boat with an Evinrude 150 G2 engine.
Currently running interstate 12v lead acid batteries - 1 starting battery charged by the main motor, and 2 deep cycle batteries (24v system) charged by a minn kota alternator charger (connected to big motor) and sometimes with an onboard Minn kota 220d charger.
Time to replace the batteries. Lithiums are still really expensive - and the documentation for my chargers is unclear - some say it will charge lithium, others say not to charge lithium batteries. So I think Lithium batteries are out.
What about AGMs? Will the chargers work with them? Are they better than lead-acid batteries? Any good brands/models of AGM or lead-acid batteries?
Thanks for any help.
submitted by DevelopmentSelect646 to Fishing [link] [comments]
Currently running interstate 12v lead acid batteries - 1 starting battery charged by the main motor, and 2 deep cycle batteries (24v system) charged by a minn kota alternator charger (connected to big motor) and sometimes with an onboard Minn kota 220d charger.
Time to replace the batteries. Lithiums are still really expensive - and the documentation for my chargers is unclear - some say it will charge lithium, others say not to charge lithium batteries. So I think Lithium batteries are out.
What about AGMs? Will the chargers work with them? Are they better than lead-acid batteries? Any good brands/models of AGM or lead-acid batteries?
Thanks for any help.
2023.05.23 05:01 1432Stewart Christopher Bell's military-themed Interstate Batteries scheme for Charlotte
 | submitted by 1432Stewart to NASCAR [link] [comments] |
2023.05.23 02:35 thedelagate Did I get a fair deal?
 | Bought a 2004 Toyota Camry, it had 35k miles on it (old lady had it). I took it to a shop and told them to check the car see what it needed and to make it good for me to commute with. Did I get ripped off or fair? I paid cash so the handwritten number is what I paid. submitted by thedelagate to AskMechanics [link] [comments] |
2023.05.21 22:41 Flyersyouth12 1964 1/2 generator to alternator conversion advise
Hi everyone I’m once again looking for some advice. After driving on the highway, around 75ish mph, for about 30 minutes straight my gen light will come on when I stop. Once that happens I charge the battery and I’m all good for city and low speed traffic indefinitely. It’s only when I’m pushing those higher speeds. So my assumption is while driving on the highway I’m using more battery power than I can charge in that time. The PO had a interstate battery with 700cca. So my question is would the alternator conversation resolve this issue and is there some other underlying problem I’m missing?
submitted by Flyersyouth12 to classicmustangs [link] [comments]